Research Practices III

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Research Practices II

Research Practices

For our latest module we have been asked to create a range by researching into two contrasting words (again). I chose Spatial and Maximum.

Spatial is how we relate to the space around us, the world of 3D. I'm going to incorporate computer designed wire framed models of simple objects into my designs - hopefully creating quite an abstract look.

Spatial moodboard

With Maximum I deliberately chose it as an opposing word to my normal work. Usually everything I make/design is based on a minimal aesthetic, with this I want to push myself and see what kind of work I can produce.

Maximum moodboard

Having chosen my words I then had to combine to two to create the starting point of my design work. I'm going to make to designs slightly over the top, but not to the point that they become fashion rather than clothing. It will all still be wearable.

Combined moodboard

Yohji Yamamoto, 'My Dear Bomb'.

I have recently read Yohji Yamamoto's autobiography, 'My Dear Bomb'. It's a really good book to read for anyone in any creative field, not just fashion. It isn't written in a wholly linea way, it starts with a very brief summary of his childhood and his reason for entering the fashion industry - his father died in WWII and he wanted to help his mother run her clothing business.

Rather than talk through each collection one by one, he instead describes his philosophy on design, and the method behind his iconic style. For example, each button and each pocket on a garment is given particular thought. He believes pockets are key to a garment, and that they should be entirely for function and not design.

"Pockets are boldly practical. I have some heavy-duty wear that has thirteen pockets, and I have been wearing it for years. There is simply nothing that beats it in terms of practicality. One can live in clothes like this."

Throughout the book you get the sense that Yohji really doesn't care for 99% of the people surrounding the fashion industry (a view shared by me). He isn't interested in people out to be noticed, or who follow current trends. He goes on to describe how he makes clothes for 'real people', and wants the garments he makes to be used as an aide to people's lives.

"I am not particularly fond of Milan or New York. The approach to clothing in these cities is different [to mine]. People there believe that clothing that sells is good clothing, and they believe the job to be a matter of chasing the latest fads. Success under this paradigm means one is also expected to demonstrate it in the established patterns. In Milan, for example, that means buying a castle in the country and owning a private jet."

I found this book very inspirational, both for Yohji's tips on how to make the perfect neck-line, and also for his dedication to his work, regardless of what is going on around him.
 

Spring/Summer 2012 Collections.

3.1 Phillip Lim

 

Acne

 

Alexander Wang

 

Damir Doma

 

Henrik Vibskov

 

Yohji Yamamoto