COS Magazine

When I recently purchased something from COS, my order arrived with the companies own magazine. The magazine is far better than any pamphlet or advertising that can sometimes come with a package.

Inside the magazine are some rather left-field interviews, such as with a bee-keeper based in Berlin. Also inside the magazine are some wonderful shoots the company has put together. The whole magazine is right up my street with its minimal design aesthetic and use of colour.

ReFusing Fashion: Rei Kawakubo

ReFusing Fashion: Rei Kawakubo is a book published in 2008, to coincide with an exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Detroit, to celebrate the work of Comme des Garçons founder, Rei Kawakubo. 

The majority of the images in the book are taken from inside the exhibition at MOCAD, the garments are displayed in strange surroundings, with little in the way of explanation behind the concept. Visually the exhibition looks exciting, there is colour everywhere and unexpected items placed around the room.

Whilst the book doesn't contain a thorough walk through on the previous collections of Comme, it does however provide a detailed bio of Rei. Much like Martin Margiela she is infamous for her lack of public appearances and unwillingness to give interviews. The book goes a long way to explain her desire to design - and her strong views on culture as a whole. While some of Rei's ways of working are detailed, it's not an autobiography - and Rei is still tight lipped about her inspiration during designing.


"I couldn't explain my creative process to you. And, even if I could, why would I want to?"

The book also has a great section on surrealism, and the role it plays within the Comme history. The whole reason for Comme is the challenge tradition, and to present a new way of thinking, be that through fashion or otherwise.

Yohji Yamamoto, 'My Dear Bomb'.

I have recently read Yohji Yamamoto's autobiography, 'My Dear Bomb'. It's a really good book to read for anyone in any creative field, not just fashion. It isn't written in a wholly linea way, it starts with a very brief summary of his childhood and his reason for entering the fashion industry - his father died in WWII and he wanted to help his mother run her clothing business.

Rather than talk through each collection one by one, he instead describes his philosophy on design, and the method behind his iconic style. For example, each button and each pocket on a garment is given particular thought. He believes pockets are key to a garment, and that they should be entirely for function and not design.

"Pockets are boldly practical. I have some heavy-duty wear that has thirteen pockets, and I have been wearing it for years. There is simply nothing that beats it in terms of practicality. One can live in clothes like this."

Throughout the book you get the sense that Yohji really doesn't care for 99% of the people surrounding the fashion industry (a view shared by me). He isn't interested in people out to be noticed, or who follow current trends. He goes on to describe how he makes clothes for 'real people', and wants the garments he makes to be used as an aide to people's lives.

"I am not particularly fond of Milan or New York. The approach to clothing in these cities is different [to mine]. People there believe that clothing that sells is good clothing, and they believe the job to be a matter of chasing the latest fads. Success under this paradigm means one is also expected to demonstrate it in the established patterns. In Milan, for example, that means buying a castle in the country and owning a private jet."

I found this book very inspirational, both for Yohji's tips on how to make the perfect neck-line, and also for his dedication to his work, regardless of what is going on around him.
 

Propaganda: Photographs from Soviet Archives by Mark Holborn

A new book which I bought recently collects various images from the former Soviet Union. The images span from the early sixties to the mid eighties.
Many of the photographs are without credit – this is because many lay unpublished for years due to strict Soviet political policies dictating freedom of expression and art.
The scope of the photographs is amazing, both in scale and subjects covered. There is a section showing the landscapes which are in the farthest corners of Eurasia. The hills and the valleys stretch on for miles.

There is also a heavy emphasis on the working man and industry. Technology was a massive tool shown in propaganda during the times of the USSR. The images show a nuclear power station been constructed amongst other things. As well as displaying to the world their might, it also showcased their intellect as a people – the fact that they could develop this technology.


The dress and attire in the book is utilitarian. Lots of shots of women at work in a factory, all wearing the same plain gown. Many of the men photographed are wearing boiler suits as they are working. This apparel is very common for communist nations – as it spreads the feeling of conformity and socialism, with everyone looking the same no one has reason to be jealous of the next man.



I’ve found this book to be very inspiring – both obviously the clothing, but also many of the buildings. The buildings are all massive in scale, with a heightened sense of grandeur. And the various structures photographed, such as electrical towers or oil pipe lines, all have shapes which can be reflected into clothing.